Leica M2 Vulcanite / Leather Replacement (How To Video)

Leica M2 Vulcanite / Leather Replacement (How To Video)

2560 1439 James Tocchio

I’ve had a Leica M2 with cracked and missing vulcanite sitting on a shelf for over two months. It was sad, ugly, and wasting away. So this weekend I decided to do something about it. Replacing the vulcanite with original material is downright impossible for the average guy, so instead I opted to use high quality leather from a well-known online shop, Aki-Asahi.

Being pretty casual about my cameras, I thought mixing things up a bit wouldn’t hurt, so I decided to go with navy blue leather instead of the traditional black, and the final result is nothing short of gorgeous. But rather than selfishly enjoying this Leica in isolation, I’ve gone through the trouble of making a short video to show how you too can re-skin your aged bauhaus masterpiece, and turn it into something clean and new.

First things first. Here’s what the M2 looked like before the operation.

Leica M2 Vulcanite Replacement 1

Pretty ugly. And I can’t tell how many Leicas I’ve seen sell for well under their deserved price as a result of ugly, broken vulcanite. While this is great news for shrewd shoppers, I think that many people are fearful of buying these decrepit looking machines simply because they don’t think they’re capable of replacing that tired, old vulcanite. Well, my fearful friends, I’m here to tell you that it’s not that hard. In fact, it’s not difficult at all. If you follow the video guide below, use common sense, and take your time, you’ll be able to get yourself a Leica for a lot less money and just a tiny bit of work.

Aki-Asahi’s camera leather comes from Japan, but even so it arrived here in less than five days. That’s amazing service. Not to mention the impeccably precise packaging, perfect product, and astoundingly low price. At less than $30 USD, I’m not even sure how Aki-Asahi stays in business, but they’re doing something right. They’ve got pre-cut templates in numerous colors and textures, and offer solutions for nearly every camera.

But that’s enough babbling. Below you’ll find the video tutorial, which should show you everything you need to know to refresh your own Leica. Some advice before the video; take your time. The only way this thing will go bad is if you rush the process. Understand that the slower you go, the better the final result will be.

If you get tired, take a break. The camera’s not going anywhere, but if you blunder ahead with flagging concentration or foolish impatience the giant scratch you leave on your top plate will be there forever. Take it easy, go slowly, and good luck!

Want your own Leica M2?

Buy it on eBay

Buy it on Amazon

Buy it at B&H Photo

Follow Casual Photophile on Facebook and Instagram

[Some of the links in this article will direct users to our affiliates at B&H Photo, Amazon, and eBay. By purchasing anything using these links, Casual Photophile may receive a small commission at no additional charge to you. This helps Casual Photophile produce the content we produce. Many thanks for your support.]

James Tocchio

James Tocchio is a writer and photographer, and the founder of Casual Photophile. He’s spent years researching, collecting, and shooting classic and collectible cameras. In addition to his work here, he’s also the founder of the online camera shop Fstopcameras.com.

All stories by:James Tocchio
11 comments
  • Neat! quiet elegant. I wanted one from asahi to my canon EF but it’s a rare model so I did my own skin buying a thin Italian leather and gluing to the camera.
    But the leica here looks like it would be using a classic suit.

    • That’s excellent. It’s much harder cutting your own template. You must’ve had a steady hand!

      • I studied architecture, so after a lot of models of buildings I got some practice, now I’m making a paper tube to a macro lens to “scan” with my camera my negatives.

  • Fifteen years ago I found a button rewind M2 with a small ding on the bottom plate and cracking vulcanite. In a few weeks it was cladded in beautiful cognac colored leather with a pebbled imprint. It still draws looks like a magnet, something my 2002 MP never did. 😀

  • Wow, how wonderful! This gave me the inspiration to attempt this. That really looks sharp.

  • How difficult/tricky is it to remove the two levers?
    Seems like that would make the job a lot easier.

    • It’s very easy to remove the levers. At the time of this article I hadn’t yet purchased the correct spanner for the job, but if you have access to this tool it is very wise to remove the levers.

  • What color of leather did you use here? I can’t seem to find it on asahi’s site.

  • a better way to place any camera leather on any clean prepped surface is to use that common hand sanitizer…not the ones with beads in it, the pure stuff. use a brush to put a fine layer of alcohol gel onto the surface of the camera to make it slightly wet and then place the leather on the camera. The alcohol allows you to place the leather on the camera and to position it perfectly. Then once you have the leather properly placed, the alcohol will evaporate over the next several hours and stick to the camera. It works great for all cameras I have done, and I have done more than 20 cameras this way. Of course we are talking the self stick leather from AKI. Once again, a thin layer of alcohol gel…not blobbed on… use a flat blade brush, 1/2″ or 1/4″ wide to spread it. Good Luck. Great article.

Leave a Reply

James Tocchio

James Tocchio is a writer and photographer, and the founder of Casual Photophile. He’s spent years researching, collecting, and shooting classic and collectible cameras. In addition to his work here, he’s also the founder of the online camera shop Fstopcameras.com.

All stories by:James Tocchio