Ricoh 500 G – A Dark Horse Compact Rangefinder Film Camera

Ricoh 500 G – A Dark Horse Compact Rangefinder Film Camera

2200 1238 Dustin Vaughn-Luma

Have you ever taken a trip to a distant city and deliberately avoided the favored tourist destinations in exchange for quaint alleyways and lesser-known pathways? If so, you’ve probably come away with some of the most surprising and rewarding experiences of your life. Often times, turning away from the popular can lead directly to something special. It’s the same with cameras. Every now and again an unfamiliar camera makes its way into my hands, surprises me with its performance, and subsequently makes me question why I lust after all those other over-hyped and over-priced machines.

Let me introduce you to my new favorite fixed-lens compact rangefinder – the Ricoh 500 G. While it may appear plain, somewhat slow, and with no significant advantages over its competition, this little rangefinder has captured my attention as well as my affection.

On paper, the Ricoh 500 G (also brought to market as the Sears 35 RF) is nothing to write home about. Released in 1972, it’s part of a series of compact Ricoh rangefinders (GS, GX, GX-1, ZF, FM and ME) that all share a similar design ethos and the same 40mm lens. They mostly mirror equivalent rangefinders of the day; humbly sporting a mechanical Copal leaf shutter capable of 1/8 to 1/500 plus Bulb, a lens-mounted CDS meter adept at accurately reading light from 25 to 800 ASA, standard X-sync flash hot shoe, a self timer and a mediocre viewfinder. By the specs and in the hand, it’s a camera that feels nearly identical to cameras like the Minolta 7sII (reviewed here) or Vivitar 35es. And while that may sound humdrum, The 500 G brings a handful of important characteristics that make it something of a dark horse of the genre.

The camera operates in both semi-automatic and manual shooting mades, which makes it a great choice for veteran and new shooters alike. For those who want a streamlined experience, shutter-priority shooting is available. Simply set the camera’s ISO dial and the desired shutter speed and the Ricoh will automatically select the correct aperture to make a proper exposure. The viewfinder is simple and sports an “always on” needle reading across the aperture range. Values are displayed vertically on the right hand side of the frame.

Shooters who rely on this automation should take note that the 500 G does not prevent the shutter from firing when the aperture needle hits the red zone on either end of the scale, like some other cameras. If the scene is too bright or too dim for the selected shutter speed, the camera will still fire, resulting in an incorrect exposure. Some may prefer the omission of this forcing function and others may not. As I’m generally a manual shooter and know my light, this methodology doesn’t bother me.

What’s more useful is the fact that unlike the more expensive Canonets and Hi-Matics, the 500 G displays its light meter reading even when shooting in manual mode. Simply turn the aperture ring away from Auto and a little “M” appears in the viewfinder letting the photographer know that they are in full control. Now set aperture and shutter speed directly, and the meter’s there to hint at the proper settings.

The light meter is powered but a single, now obsolete, PX675 mercury cell battery. But since a standard 1.55V LR44 or SR44 cell works just fine, there’s little reason to worry over batteries (note that the battery bay, like the one found on Minolta’s 7sII, is not large enough for an MR-9 adapter, so don’t bother). An added perk, the camera still fires without battery power at all speeds and apertures when shot in manual mode.

The 500 G sports the Zeiss Tessar-based 40mm f2.8 Rikenon lens. Made of 4 elements in 3 groups, there isn’t anything overly complicated or advanced happening here, and in the time I’ve had this camera, my expectations for its lens performance have been well met.

Most 40mm fixed-lens compact cameras are mildly soft at wide open apertures, and the 500 G is no exception. With a max aperture of f/2.8, and a close focus distance of three feet, it isn’t a portrait machine by any stretch. The leaf shutter blades form a pudgy diamond-like pattern, so out of focus elements can get a bit swirly and bokeh highlights end up looking like little kites flying around in the background of the scene. However, stop the lens down to f/5.6 or f/8 and the detail is pretty darn great. Images made at all apertures will easily go toe-to-toe with any one of this genre’s more well-known alternatives, such as the Canonet and the previously-mentioned Minolta.

Shots in the sample gallery were made with Kodak Tri-X and Kodak Portra 160.

Ergonomics are mixed, but the lens barrel itself also holds advantages over the popular players in the space. Focus is achieved by turning the ring on the lens (not a paddle lever as in the case of the QL17 or the 7sII). This will be more comfortable for some shooters, less so for others. The throw is slightly longer than other cameras in its class, but the benefit is that the lens doesn’t move back and forth when focusing. Instead, the elements move within the lens barrel, keeping the camera’s profile uniform and compact. Distance markings are color coded in both feet and meters, and spaced well enough to make out at a glance.

The knurled rings for shutter speed and aperture are quite close to one another, but are stepped just enough to make finding either one a breeze. And while the aperture ring sits flush against the body, it’s easy enough to grab and twist without removing one’s eye from the finder. The same can’t be said for pricier compact rangefinders, such as the Olympus 35RD.

ISO control is handled by a small plastic ring on the face of the lens. Simply place a thumb and index finger on it and twist. Values are visible through a small window, and the ring snaps into its detents with reassurance. This is a welcome feature and another area where the Ricoh flounces its expensive competition; other small rangefinders use a fiddly metal tab to change ISO, which often requires a delicate hand and painful prying of the shooter’s fingernail.

The camera’s short throw film advance (170 degrees) is abrupt, but feels smooth enough to get the job done quickly. As a shooter who clutches cameras against my chest, I found that when cocked, the advance could benefit from a bit more room for my thumb to rest between it and the back of the camera body. When shooting on the street, I tend to rely on that hold for leverage and I couldn’t help but feel as if the camera didn’t quite fit.

The shutter release button on this little machine is well designed, especially when compared to the sometimes tiny and painful buttons of its competition. Its T-shaped profile is sturdy and doesn’t require the use of a soft release. Of course, the release is threaded should accessories be needed.

Loading film is easier than expected, with the take up spool doing a wonderful job of grabbing the film’s sprocket holes and pulling it tight right away. With most cameras, I typically make two advances and ensure things are taut before closing the film bay door, but with the 500 G I found just a single advance left me feeling satisfied that my film was held tightly and ready to make its rounds. As a result, I’ve been able to shoot 39 frames on a 36 exposure roll.

Want to rewind that film quickly? Good luck. You may want to callous up those fingers a bit, because the film rewind crank is about as pleasurable as running your nails down a chalkboard. Not only is the angle of the crank a bit too elevated, the crank itself is surprisingly short; which requires a bit more strength than usual in order to rotate it. Not a deal breaker by any stretch, but it’s certainly my least favorite aspect of the camera.

I’d be lying if I told you the 500 G’s viewfinder was significant in any way. Truthfully, it’s 0.5x magnification and tiny window make it ho-hum at best. The rangefinder patch itself is illuminated via a diamond-shaped window up front, and while small, my copy of the camera is still surprisingly bright and contrasty.

Aligning the 500 G’s patch couldn’t be easier, and since other sources on the good old internet are loaded with misinformation, let’s set the record straight. Contrary to what others say, the rangefinder alignment screws are accessible without having to disassemble the camera. The vertical alignment screw sits inside a small port just under the flash hot shoe (on the left), and is accessed by removing three small screws. The horizontal alignment screw is accessible from the film bay; simply removing a small screw to the left of the shutter box will reveal the adjustment screw underneath it. No need to pull the front plate, top plate, or even the leatherette to perform this service.

With most 500 G’s there’s a high likelihood that the light seals have mutated into some form of hideous meconium. The film bay door design exacerbates this issue due to the way it wraps itself across the entire back of the camera; including the viewfinder, often leaving disintegrated gooey seal residue on the viewfinder glass itself. While the material used during manufacturing doesn’t stand the test of time, resealing the film bay couldn’t be easier with a bit of craft store foam or felt. It’s made even simpler by the lack of complicated corners in the film door. Four strips across the perimeter and it’s light tight.

When James sent me this camera for review, two things popped into my mind; why hadn’t I been interested in this camera before, and how soon could I get my hands on the rest of the 500 series? The cameras good looks, compact form factor, and better-than-average usability make it a very attractive camera at a very affordable price. And now that I’ve put one through its paces, its outsized performance has won me over.

Do I view this camera as being the best in class? No. Do I think it’s lens is better than those of its competition? Not entirely. But at its low price, the Ricoh punches above its weight. If you’re looking for a camera to use for simple family snapshots or as a tiny street weapon, the Ricoh 500 G could easily be that camera. Most of its features are better implemented than its contemporaries, and at f/8, images made with this Rikenon lens and Canon’s fixed 40s are indistinguishable. In fact, if contrast is of value, I’d favor the Rikenon. If a high-speed lens is your highest priority, you’ll have to pay that premium, but I don’t think it’s worth it.

As the film community continues to see once inexpensive cameras skyrocket to insane prices, the tiny Ricoh 500 G is a relatively undiscovered secret. It has everything you need without any of the trendy bullshit. It’s a plain little machine that often gets overlooked by those yearning for a slice of glitz and folklore; and honestly, I understand why it’s been passed by. Most of them need replacement light seals, which probably turns off new shooters, and it isn’t flashy or fast. At first glance, this little Ricoh is nothing special. But if you’re the type who’s willing to try the unpopular and embrace it objectively, then the Ricoh 500 G is definitely worth a damn.

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Dustin Vaughn-Luma

An experience designer, freelance photographer, and competitive cyclist living in San Jose, California with his wife, three sons, and neurotic bernese mountain dog. The majority of his personal work is shot on 35mm and 120 film, and is developed and scanned at home.

All stories by:Dustin Vaughn-Luma
22 comments
  • dancomanphotography January 24, 2018 at 9:45 am

    Nice article, thanks Dustin. I almost bought one of these from my local camera shop but a quick eBay scan showed that they were asking way too much for it. I couldn’t find much information about it online, other than that they have a tendency to chew up film occasionally, but it’s nice to see some sample images. Think I’ll stick with my Olympus Trip for now.

    • Appreciate the kind words, Dan. If you don’t mind resealing the film bay, and find one with a clean lens, they really are wonderful. You should be able to find them on eBay in excellent condition for around $40 – $50.

      You’re in good hands with that little Trip. I need to get my hands on one.

  • I had never seen that the Canonet will turn off the lightmeter in manual mode. Is that true, or did I just read it incorrectly?

    • Hi Sam,

      Thanks for the comment. Yes, both the Canonet ql17 and ql19 do not meter when in manual mode (these two models are similar to the 500G in that they have full manual override). The meter only takes a reading when shooting in shutter priority automatic on those cameras. The ql28, in comparison, is a fully automatic camera, where similar to something like the Yashica GT/GS series, determines the shutter speed automatically for you based on the aperture chosen.

  • There are so many rangefinders that are similarly spec’d. It’s hard to go wrong. I tend to avoid those with slower lenses and discontinued batteries – like this Ricoh. Since it can work without a battery, I may need to change my mind.

    • Hey Matt… it certainly is. Honestly, even if a battery is warranted, an inexpensive LR-44 battery or even those 1.4v zinc air hearing aid batteries work just fine in this thing.

  • Pretty neat that i came across this as i just started shooting my Canonet QL17 again. They seem very similar and this particular camera is beautiful. Im going to scoop one up now thanks for this article

    • Rocky, I just spent some time enjoying your photography on your site. Amazing shooting my dude. I hope you put some shots with the Ricoh up there, because I’ll be sure to take a look again.

    • I have owned both cameras — the Ricoh and your Canon. I wore the Ricoh out; the Canon was still working like new when I retired it because I couldn’t get batteries for it. That Canon is a tank.

  • Great review of a fun camera. I recently acquired a newly CLA’d Ricoh 500gx (same as the 500g but with the addition of a battery checker button and a handy multiple exposure lever) and I am loving it. It’s not much bigger than my beloved Olympus XA but unlike the XA it allows full manual control and has a hotshoe. This is a real keeper.

  • Nice article! I owned 2 Ricoh 35ZF – though not the rangefinder series like the 500G – its got the same exact lens and body size. And i can see the position of the film advance, shutter and timer are similar. The 35ZF is a scale focus camera, and produced nice, sharp images. I love carrying it around for the size and weight, its either in my tote bag or in the pocket of my shorts. I broke the film take-up spool of one after yanking the film advance lever a little too hard at the end after the final shot. I bought another in time for travelling around Malaysia, but after a few rolls it died with a bad meter. I agree with how easy and simple it is to switch ISO. And i used normal LR44 batteries on mine. This article makes me want to look for another 35ZF again, or maybe the 500G as well. I’ll repeat again: Nice article!

  • What a great review and luckily for me I have a 500g which is very underused but no longer.

  • That Ricoh was my first camera, and it was a great learning tool. I sold it to a friend (I later bought it back), and he had some obvious parallax issues with it. But that Ricoh (actually, mine was the Sears version, the Sears 35RF) taught me how to shoot. Years later, I bought the similar Canon QL17. If I could find any possible reason to buy a film camera, that Ricoh would be my choice. By the way, I wore the Ricoh out to the point it was junk. The Canon was built to last for generations.

  • Hi. I recently discovered this type of camera after packing out some of my Grandmother’s old things. I have no experience with vintage cameras but will really love to learn. Is there any way I can find out how/if it still works?

  • Hi Dustin

    Thank you very much for your post, which I’ve found very interesting. Last week I’ve found a RICOH 500G at my dad’s place. The camera hasn’t been used in the last 25 years but seems to be fine. I’ve replaced the battery and the light meter is now working. The only issue is given by the focusing. When I turn the focus ring nothing seems to change in the the central diamond-shaped rangefinder spot. Do you have any tips on how to fix this problem? Will I be able to take pictures anyway?

    Thanks,
    Tom

    • You should be still able to focus the lens even if the rangefinder has stopped working.
      The way to check is to watch for the lens mount to start turning and moving slightly “in and out” as you change the focus. lf that happens then you know the focusing is working and you can use the focusing scale instead. l myself have owned a Ricoh 500 G since 1996 when l paid £15 for it and its a nice little camera with a sharp lens.

    • Try sliding the viewfinder glass around and maybe back into place. It could be out of alignment and stopping the RF working

  • I have one of these.
    Worth mentioning that in Auto mode, you can depress the shutter halfway, to achieve exposure lock.
    Nice little feature, if you want to expose your scene in different ways!

  • Nice article! So with the lightmeter showing values in the viewfinder even in manual mode, could this camera be used in a sort of pseudo-aperture-priority mode then? As in, set the aperture manually and then the meter shows which shutter speed it thinks you should use?

    • Sure could. There are a few shutter-priority cameras that have this functionality. Some even mention it in the manuals, like the Canon AE-1.

  • I had one of these back in the day, unfortunately it was stolen when on holiday. I bought it as a cheaper alternative to the Konica C35, you can certainly notice the difference in construction but it worked fine for hiking as well as everyday photography. I found it light, reliable, easy to use and with excellent picture quality from a sharp lens.

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Dustin Vaughn-Luma

An experience designer, freelance photographer, and competitive cyclist living in San Jose, California with his wife, three sons, and neurotic bernese mountain dog. The majority of his personal work is shot on 35mm and 120 film, and is developed and scanned at home.

All stories by:Dustin Vaughn-Luma